Three villages, rivalling each other in the attractiveness and merits, surround this gigantic rock. Xodos’ location on the top of an extended cliff is unequalled, the excursions that start at Villahermosa are magnificent, but it is from Vistabella that the classical approach to Penyagolosa is taken.

From this elevated village, a ten mile stretch of road goes up to the Saint Joan sanctuary, spiritual centre of this massif.  The best-known and perhaps most beautiful route to the peak starts on the right-hand side a few metres before arriving at this impressive Gothic compound. Here we find the ravine of Pegunta, named after the mark of black pine resin from the trees surrounding the river that was put on cattle. The peak can be reached in four hours of easy walking, or the time can be cut in half by driving up the forest road to a large clearing that is used for parking.
    
Although it loses the honour of being the highest mountain in the Valencia region by barely 20 metres, that does not lessen the aura that the Penyagolosa has always had for Valencians. It has been the destination of centuries of pilgrimages for those of the region and that of the Les Useres Pilgrams is the best known of many. The feeling that the power of San Juan grows on this sacred mountain causes romerías to trek from as far away as the neighbouring Aragon.
    
This 1,814 metres tower offers a variety of possibilities for city mountain climbers. The east face offers its more than 200 metres of vertical climb to mountaineers using rope and spikes. The other slopes have easier ascents among woods of red and black pines, dotted with yew trees, holly, and wild fruit trees which make way for open fields with thousands of butterflies at the top of the mountain. One can see far into the distance from the summit and on a clear day more than half of the territory of Valencia is visible.

    
Those who do not feel the call to heights or prefer easier routes can opt for the path between Villahermosa and the source of the Carbo river. The gentle trail follows this clear stream, with small splashes of water and an abundant fountain around half way up, for a couple of hours. The reward at the end, should one be needed, is a fifteen meter waterfall in an untouched state. The journey can be shortened by driving to the Posada del Rio Carbo which is also a recommended place to spend the night. There are more lodgings in Vistabella, as well as some in Xodos

An endangered flower

In the cracks that furrow the rocks at the peak, a small plant with pink flowers grows that is found only in high altitudes, sometimes hanging from the cliff. It is known as the Cavanilles geranium in honour of the noted Valencian botanist who discovered it in 1791 during his first climb of Penyagolosa. Only found on this peak, it is one of the rarest plants in the territory of Valencia. Of course, it is forbidden to collect it as it is with any other living thing in a Nature Park, and it wouldn’t survive outside of its inhospitable habitat in any case.

What to see in may

As we know, May is the month of flowers. Spring, already well underway on the coast, now starts in earnest in the interior regions. In the mountains bordering the sea such as Calderona, the sight of the rockroses flowering in areas void of pine trees is dazzling. It is also the best moment to discover the more than fifty species of indigenous orchids, all similar to cultivated ones except in their smaller size. They especially prosper in the mountains north of Alicante such as Serra Gelada, Aitana, Bernia, and Mariola.

Photos:

1. El Penyagolosa visto desde el Carbo
2. Cima del Penyagolosa
3. Cascada Carbo
4. Geranio cavanilles
5. Geranio cavanilles (2)